“Loss of life or the west coast of Greenland,” the indomitable polar explorer Fridtjof Nansen as soon as mentioned, and it might have been the motto of his 1888 expedition, the primary crossing of inside Greenland. He later would name it the “scheme of a lunatic,” which I really feel might be utilized to most polar expeditions of the time. What does that say about me that it conjures up me to wish to go to Greenland?
Whereas it’s a lot simpler now to entry the world’s greatest island, Greenland, in some ways, nonetheless holds the parable and surprise that captivated so many explorers over the centuries. No roads join the communities right here; it nonetheless holds the highest honor for the least populated nation on earth.
Wild, historic, poignant, and profound, Greenland has carved out a nook of my coronary heart.
Final summer time (northern hemisphere), I spent a good period of time in Greenland whereas exploring by expedition ship with Adventure Canada. Most of their Arctic journeys name into Greenland sooner or later or one other, and it actually acquired below my pores and skin in one of the simplest ways doable.
The very first thing it is advisable to learn about Greenland is that it’s actually distant; no roads join the cities and communities (although that’s altering). Sure, you learn that proper. You go by air or boat or snowmobile in winter. If you wish to pack so much in, one of the simplest ways is to go by expedition ship.
The opposite massive factor to notice is that whereas Nuuk is the capital, the primary airport is in Kangerlussuaq, 300 kilometers north. That’s the place you fly from abroad.
Greenland now ranks excessive as one in all my favourite locations to go to worldwide, and that’s saying one thing! I’d return in a heartbeat. It’s a rustic that deserves so many tales. Right here’s my first introduction in pictures from my time spent within the Arctic visiting Greenland, Take pleasure in!
At sea in East Greenland
You don’t want me to let you know Greenland is distant. Solely 56,000 name the world’s greatest island house.
It’s additionally an autonomous nation throughout the kingdom of Denmark. You’ll discover this beautiful shortly, particularly you probably have frolicked in different Arctic nations. Denmark’s wealth and funding are apparent right here, particularly in comparison with the Canadian Arctic (which I’ll dig into later).
Nearly everybody lives on Greenland’s extra developed western facet, particularly with a milder local weather within the south. The east coast is rugged, stuffed with glaciers, and never very liveable. I first visited Greenland by expedition ship with Journey Canada on their Iceland to Greenland: In the Wake of the Vikings journey. It was a really cool method to arrive in Greenland for the primary time. We started seeing the shoreline by way of the pack ice at sundown, which was unbelievable.
Oh, and did I point out Margaret Attwood was a particular visitor on this journey? Unbelievable.
Ilullissat
If I needed to guess, I’d say that Ilullissat might be the largest vacationer website in Greenland. And after calling in a number of occasions, I can heartily agree. A brilliant cute city with plenty of nice little outlets and spots to eat, it has heaps of enjoyable actions to participate in.
A few of the greatest icebergs within the Atlantic originate right here. In actual fact, the iceberg that sank the Titanic is believed to have come from right here. House to the UNESCO World Heritage Ilulissat Icefjord, it incorporates the Sermeq Kujalleq (Jakobshavn Glacier), the most efficient glacier within the northern hemisphere, which drops over 20 billion tons of ice a 12 months.
The fiord is chock stuffed with icebergs which have calved down from the glacier, typically a kilometer tall and the scale of skyscrapers. Too massive to drift, they get caught on the underside, clogging up the world earlier than breaking up and floating down into Disko Bay. Nothing conjures up individuals to go to Greenland fairly like these iconic polar views.
Hvalsey
Hvalsey is house to one in all Greenland’s nice mysteries. And it’s additionally a spot that proves that, sure, Greenland could be inexperienced. Generally. The most effective Norse ruins in Greenland could be present in Hvalsey on the south coast. Norse Icelandic settlers first arrived on the southwest coast within the ninth century however died out over the subsequent few hundred years.
Hvalsey can also be the place that had the final report from the unique Norse colony earlier than, poof, they disappeared from historical past: a marriage in 1408 on the church. You’ll be able to nonetheless go to the church ruins round Hvalsey right now.
We go to Hvalsey on the Iceland to Greenland: In the Wake of the Vikings voyage with Journey Canada.
Evigshead Fjord – Kangerlussuatsiaq
Three months at sea within the Arctic meant I’d seen my justifiable share of glaciers and fiords. And belief me, they by no means get outdated.
However one essentially the most inspiring ones must be Kangerlussuatsiaq – strive saying that 3 times quick! Translated as “the reasonably massive fjord” in Greenlandic, whereas the older Danish title Evighead interprets to “the fjord of eternity.”
75 kilometers lengthy, the sail down the fiord is simply as unbelievable as arriving on the tidewater glacier itself. The views are spectacular, and we regularly see seals snoozing on the ice. On one notably calm, sunny summer time’s day, we even did the polar plunge right here.
Nuuk
After being at sea round distant Greenland, I used to be stoked to reach in Nuuk and get my first oat latte. Although it ended up costing $14nzd, it was price it. I had three.
Nuuk is a cool little metropolis. It’s small and completely walkable; there are some vacationer outlets and spots, but it surely nonetheless feels genuine. The views are nice, and the museum is one in all my favourite spots. I’d like to spend extra time right here in the future.
Prince Christian Sound – Ikerasassuaq
On the very backside of Greenland, you’ll discover Prince Christian Sound, probably the most spectacular waterways to discover. Right here, the Irminger and Labrador Seas meet alongside the islands of the Cape Farewell Archipelago. The mountains and views are dramatic, and anyplace you land is spectacular.
It’s named after the Nineteenth-century king of Denmark, Christian VIII. Denmark has had colonies in Greenland for the reason that 18th century, and these days, Greenland is formally an autonomous nation throughout the Kingdom of Denmark. Danish is extensively spoken, although it’s not the official language.
Sisimiut
Sisimiut is the second largest metropolis in Greenland and is taken into account the gateway to many out of doors adventures. It sits throughout the Arctic Circle, surrounded by steep mountains and unbelievable views. There are many good cafes and procuring round Sisimiut, and the open-air museum is fairly wonderful, too. We referred to as in right here on a number of journeys, together with the enduring High Arctic Explorer ones.
Each time we name in, we get to take pleasure in a setup referred to as “A Style of Greenland” on the resort on the primary sq., which incorporates a few of the nation’s most iconic dishes, together with whale. Whereas I’ll delve into this matter much more in-depth later, I’ll say that spending time within the Arctic opened my eyes to subsistence looking by indigenous individuals, which is what occurs right here. That being mentioned, whale is an acquired style. And texture.
The final time we referred to as into Sisimiut in September, we had essentially the most unbelievable exhibiting of the northern lights. By then, the times of midnight suns are over. I used to be recovering from being sick, and my ship bestie knocked on my door till I acquired as much as go see them. No regrets.
Illukulik – Lindenow Fjord
Southern Greenland is spectacular, and we spent a number of days navigating alongside the shoreline from the east over to the western facet of the nation. We additionally had essentially the most wonderful climate the whole journey, with heat sunny days time and again.
One of many causes I bear in mind our cease within the Lindenow Fjord was due to the haze. The smoke from monumental bush fires in Canada drifted over to Greenland, leaving a barely hazy sky. It didn’t make a lot of a distinction with landings, and also you couldn’t scent the smoke. Nevertheless it did make for completely spectacular sunsets.
Some pictures I shot listed below are my favourite from my total season spent at sea. I hope they proceed to encourage individuals to go to Greenland.
Uunartoq
In southwest Greenland, you’ll discover the tiny island of Uunartoq – house to the one scorching springs which are heat/cool sufficient to swim in – that vacationers learn about a minimum of – and which were dammed up right into a pool.
Surrounded by icebergs and delightful mountains on a misty day, Uunartoq was an actual spotlight for everybody as we sunk down into the crystal-clear swimming pools.
Kangerluluk – Dangerous Fiord
Our first touchdown in Greenland after crusing over from Iceland blew me away. It was heat and sunny once we arrived at Kangerluluk, a distant fiord few have visited. We landed on a sunny seaside with contemporary polar bear paw prints within the sand. It was very a lot an expedition-style journey day. These views encourage individuals to go to Greenland.
Surrounded by large mountains with stunning glaciers dripping right down to sea stage, I wandered for hours amongst the tundra, soaking on this unbelievable place. And making an attempt to not soak in too many mosquitos by accident. The bugs in Greenland in summertime are not any joke – that’s whenever you pray for wind.
That mentioned, I spent a number of time in Greenland in the summertime, and this was the one day the bugs aggravated me.
Qaanaaq
Qaanaaq was by far my favourite place to go to Greenland final summer time, and it was by whole accident.
On the Out of the Northwest Passage journey, we go to Grise Fiord, Canada’s northernmost neighborhood. However Mom Nature dictates our itineraries, and that summer time, it was often blocked by sea ice. So, as a substitute, we referred to as Qaanaaq. The northernmost city in Greenland is spectacular. Surrounded by mountains and icebergs in Baffin Bay, it has colourful homes, pleasant locals, and plenty of historical past and tradition. And there have been TONS of sled canine puppies.
It was additionally the bottom and residential of the well-known Arctic explorer Knud Rasmussen, whose house is now a museum.
Kap York
Kap York was one of many furthest factors northward I traveled in Greenland on my expedition with Journey Canada. Once we arrived, the mountains have been shrouded in fog, and the waters have been so nonetheless that you can see the arctic char gliding beneath the floor. On land, if you happen to paused in silence, you can hear birdsong booming above you thru the mists.
Because the morning wore on and the fog step by step lifted, all of the sudden, large flocks of dovekies appeared, flying out across the tops of the cliffs. They swarmed backward and forward, nearly bat-like of their kind and abundance. I’m unsure I’ve ever seen something prefer it. Enjoying peekaboo with the fog made all the pieces much more unearthly.
Beneath, a household of Arctic foxes darted out and in of the rocks, frolicking in the summertime snow patches. Icebergs cracked and rolled within the bay. By this level, I used to be satisfied I had entered one other world. How is that this actual life?
Tassiussaq
In northwest Greenland we referred to as in a number of occasions to probably the most attention-grabbing archeological websites I’ve ever been to: Tassiussaq.
A lot of Greenland’s historical past is framed across the European Vikings. The reality is that Greenland has a a lot deeper and extra fascinating historical past courting again hundreds of years to the Thule and paleo-Inuit peoples. Journey Canada works laborious to deliver professional guides together with us, like archaeologists specializing within the locations we go to and Inuit cultural educators.
Tassiussaq was a kind of locations the place we might see the stays and ruins of Thule homes, meat caches, and even graves, however we respectfully stored our distance from them.
Are you impressed to go to Greenland now?
Many due to Journey Canada for internet hosting me in Greenland – like all the time, I’m protecting it actual – all opinions are my very own, like you can count on much less from me!
