Dionysis is a person so instantly heat and welcoming I nearly go in for a hug as he greets me on the airport. However he’s involved. I seem to have introduced the British rain with me.
Actually, London had basked in blissful beer-garden climate for a number of days earlier than my obscenely early flight however I don’t inform Dionysis this and as an alternative supply a rueful apology as he masses my baggage into his Merc.
Kefalonia, the most important of the Ionian islands, has a richer palette than the sugar-cube white and Yves Klein blue of its Cycladic siblings. As we wind uphill, we cross pink-fronted retailers and caramel colored church buildings, however the high of Ainos, the camo-green mountain which stands because the island’s highest, is nowhere to be seen, wrapped as an alternative in a decent cloudy embrace.
The dense pine forests that cling to its sides are, Dionysis tells me, uncommon black pines as soon as raided by the Venetians to construct the foundations of the floating metropolis. ‘They’ll be superb on this drizzle then’ I supply, lamely.
Whereas it won’t precisely be in show-off mode as we drive, Kefalonia is being talked about in reverent phrases by in-the-know island hoppers as this summer season’s must-visit. Which? even hailed it as Greece’s finest in a recent poll, and whereas such issues should be taken with a pinch of the proverbial, it’s arduous to argue with their reasoning: elegant sandy seashores, high-rise-free surroundings, and a real sense of solitude.
It’s a miracle it’s right here in any respect, actually. Within the August of 1953, an earthquake measuring 6.8 on the Richter scale devastated the island. ‘That was one of many few’ says Dionysis mentioning the unscathed historical fort of Agios Georgios nonetheless peering proudly from a distant hillside.
I ponder, as we park up at Eliamos, what as soon as stood right here however I’m distracted making an attempt to glimpse Mount Ainos by the clouds and overlook to ask. I do know that the buildings are model new; I’m one of many first company the truth is. However the mottled terracotta roofs, mosaic limestone partitions, and wild-meadow gardens that stretch down in the direction of the water belie their boxfresh nature.
Perked up after a mint-lime cooler and a fruit platter, I survey my new residing quarters. Owing to its blockbuster Ionian Sea views, life is offered – for individuals who know their facet ratios – in 21:9 at Eliamos. Really cinematic widescreen. If you throw again the curtains, you half anticipate to see a kind of certification screens declaring a score of ‘Common: appropriate for all’.
It’s not in superb technicolour simply but but it surely beguiles in an entire completely different manner. I stick on one thing suitably moody (local-ish boy Vangelis does the trick), pour myself a glass of kindly gifted native wine, and stand out on the terrace watching raindrops hit the pool.
It’s soothing, positive, however nothing in contrast with what follows once I stroll again uphill to the wellness centre for an hour-long full-body therapeutic massage which one way or the other unknots knots I didn’t even realise had been knotted.
Afterwards, I sit for dinner and gaze out at a sky stuffed with stars between mouthfuls of grilled octopus and the very tenderest of lamb. Climate be damned, that is contentment, I feel. Then ‘I’m Solely Completely happy When It Rains’ performs and I snicker quietly to myself.
The following morning we return to commonly scheduled programming. The solar tempts me out to my pool at a dawn-ish hour I strive arduous to keep away from in regular circumstances and presents me with that Ionian view – the foot of Ainos framing issues neatly to my left, the sting of Zakynthos within the distance; the occasional boat bobbing previous – in such blue readability that an audible ‘whoa’ escapes my lips.
At breakfast I sit on the terrace going through the identical view in case, I don’t know, I miss one thing? That I don’t distractedly spill egg yolk or (scrumptious) regionally made honey down myself is one thing of a miracle. However I can’t stare at this view all day, I deceive myself, and I make an try at exploring extra of the island.
The trail right down to the closest cove has been rendered a bit of treacherous by the uninvited rain, so I take a barely longer route by the pines and down some vertiginous hairpin paths to a abandoned Livathou Seashore, the place the soundtrack contains solely of lapping waves, rustling bushes and the odd distant barking canine.
I take a taxi trip north into the capital, Argostoli. The city has two claims to fame: 1) the De Bosset bridge, named for its Swiss engineer and the longest stone footbridge on the planet, and a couple of) loggerhead turtles, who feed within the heat lagoon waters. And strolling the previous affords good glimpses of the latter. ‘Turtles! In Europe!’ I textual content with a video of 1 to a buddy. ‘Nicely that’s simply MAGICAL’ comes their reply. I’m inclined to agree.
I stroll again alongside the harbourside admiring the jumble of buildings for his or her characterful colors – the rebuild from the earthquake is especially spectacular right here – and the just about Alpine views of the hills on the opposite facet. I cease for a beer in the primary sq. the place a father and son are enjoying soccer and stray canine are sleeping curled up within the shade.
It’s as pure a vacation scene as you possibly can want for, however I quick get stressed. That view has turn into my psychological screensaver and I’m compelled to get again to it for sundown.
And so, as my return trip takes me into postcard fairly villages, previous coastal paths to crowd-free coves, by unspoilt, untouched, wild land (think about an Ionian Menorca), I realise the irony: that is an island actually price discovering, but the views at Eliamos would possibly simply forestall you from doing so.
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All pictures by the creator
Richard MacKichan is Mr & Mrs Smith’s editor-in-chief and has additionally contributed to the likes of Mr Porter, The Gentleman’s Journal, Gossamer, Grazia, BA’s Excessive Life, Eurostar’s Metropolitan, The Unbiased and extra. Most individuals name him Richie.
