Not solely have I spent a major period of time in New England however I lived within the Boston space for over a decade. Throughout that chapter of my life, We Weblog the World didn’t exist nor was I writing about journey. That stated, my recollections are recent and vivid, from enjoyable cultural and social occasions to getting misplaced in nature.
We headed again East this summer time and had been capable of return to my favourite haunts. How a lot have they modified? Honestly, I used to be shocked at how little had modified. Let’s begin with Boston itself. Positive, there’s much less building (and disruption) than once I lived there; nonetheless, different street work continues. We arrived late at evening, so leaping on Storrow Drive to go out to an AirBNB in Waltham was pretty stress-free (and fast) however returning to Logan was a little bit of a problem as a result of present work on the Sumner Tunnel. My staple route alongside the Charles River was a well-known one, a lot in order that I used to be on auto-pilot for a lot of the journey.
Fairly frankly, writing this text, after little or no journey through the quieter years of Covid, feels extra “overseas” than visiting my outdated stomping grounds, which embrace Newton, Watertown, Cambridge, Somerville, Jamaica Plain, Walden Pond, Rockport, Gloucester, and Cape Cod (not essentially in that order).
Oh yeah, and let’s not overlook Belmont the place I lived for a stint . . . an extended one. That drive-by was a bit emotional as reminiscence after reminiscence got here pouring by way of, together with the time my ex and I watched the squirrels from our bed room window operating alongside the fence and strategized how we might deter them from mucking about in our tomato crops. The barbecues, yard guide group gatherings, cooking up a storm in our loud apricot ginger kitchen, and shoveling the driveway each winter. The brand new house owners (renters?) planted a vegetable backyard within the entrance and amidst squash, lettuce and peppers, just a few tall and sprightly sunflowers greeted me from the sidewalk.
There was no time to go to Nantucket this time round; nonetheless, read about our trip 8 years ago and remember to see the breathtaking summer sunflowers we encountered during a bike ride. In case you do head to Nantucket or Martha’s Winery, just a few gems price exploring in Cape Cod in your method embrace Chatham, Truro and Wellfleet.
We returned to Gloucester’s Rocky Neck and went down reminiscence lane (see our journey many years ago which we took in by bike). Truthfully, in the event you examine the images, you’ll see loads of similarities: the quirkiness of the retailers, the artistic flare of the artists’ exterior studio facades, the colourful flowers in entrance of the stained-colored buildings and galleries. The weathered look from chipped paint on entrance homes, bikes, boats and cafe doorways. It was a lot quieter than I remembered.
The primary addition to our expertise this yr was a melancholy story shared by artisan Stephen Laptierre, whose work took over the biggest gallery area within the Artwork Colony. Artisans are really the breath of Rocky Neck. There’s a historical past right here and locals are rightfully pleased with that historical past, one which has drawn artists and musicians alike to arrange foot on her soil for years.
Artists have had a tough time sustaining their studios with prices hovering and fewer vacationers coming by way of. Little question, a part of it may be attributed to the Covid years which affected so many store house owners, eating places and cafes. That stated, it appeared like the difficulty went a lot deeper as we listened to Stephen’s insights. He lives in his studio, so the hire for his gallery is mixed together with his value to stay—it’s the exact same area he lays his head to relaxation each evening. Beneath, Anthony appears on as he shares story after story, together with the meanings behind every of the work. What a riveting journey and but I sensed a deep disappointment, as if we had been on the point of an finish to a really particular period.
His studio was actually eclectic and work lined each single wall, from ceiling to flooring on all sides, together with the hallway main out to an exterior wood stairway that took you all the way down to the primary road. Off to the left was a sink, range and tea kettle and there was a sofa someplace within the midst of all of it if I recall. And a desk.
It’s not all artwork in Rocky Neck however the galleries are what most draw individuals to go to. There’s additionally the uncooked and genuine ambiance of crusing life throughout you, dock after dock, boat after boat . . . This distinctive treasure is located on a rocky peninsula tucked away inside Gloucester’s working harbor.
Gloucester
Rocky Neck isn’t all there may be to Gloucester. There are a number of quaint neighborhoods together with just a few purchasing areas which I like to walk. Who doesn’t love cafes, vintage shops and quaint boutiques in New England? In case you don’t, then I’d argue you won’t gel with New England. In any case, it’s the connection to all issues historical (a minimum of by American requirements) that deliver individuals to the Northeast. Since Anthony and I grew up within the area, it was like going dwelling: the dwelling we grew up figuring out by way of its distinctive smells, tastes and sights.
Rockport
A stone’s throw from Gloucester lies Rockport, and it tends to be custom to go to each time I’m within the space. Possibly the draw is Rockport’s acquainted toffee and ice cream retailers, or the pewter retailer I do know so properly. Or maybe its the numerous enjoyable occasions I’ve had alongside its pedestrian walkway and the handfuls of lobsters I’ve eaten there, inside and out. Probably the most notorious picturesque views in New England could be present in Rockport though some Maine natives would possibly argue with me on that one.
As many occasions as I’ve been to Rockport, I had by no means set foot within the church on the left alongside Broadway. I by no means had a cause to; nonetheless, this time we ventured into St. Mary’s Episcopal Church out of curiosity. I had forgotten how a lot I like outdated church buildings and cathedrals; it’s one of many issues that make meandering by way of outdated European cities so attention-grabbing. They inform a narrative: a area or metropolis’s tradition. Its historical past. Perception methods are baked into their partitions and stained glass home windows. They continue to be alive by way of the vitality they emit as you look on.
Included within the stained-glass home windows at St. Mary’s is a communion roll initially supposed for a aspect chapel, which presents a collage of Yeshua’s (Jesus’) parables. A sanctuary candle continually burns and there’s an altar designed to be the aumbry the place the Blessed Sacrament is reserved.
There are fairly just a few artwork galleries to soak up, notably Don Gorvett, Jeffrey Marshall, North Shore Arts Affiliation, Marilyn Swift, Cripple Cove Studios, Michalak Superb Artwork, Stefan Mierz Superb Artwork Studio, Ruth Mordecai, and Judythe Evans Meagher amongst quite a few others.
Rockport most likely isn’t the most effective place to get lobster within the space, largely as a result of it’s costlier than heading somewhat additional north alongside Route 1. There are many locations to get seafood, both sitting down or grabbing a cuppa New England creamy chowder to go. On the very finish of Bearskin Neck (#68 to be exact), you’ll discover My Place by the Sea and it didn’t appear to be it modified in any respect because the final time we had a romantic meal on their deck roughly eight years in the past. We had been planning to repeat the expertise nevertheless it was closed, so we headed to Fleur Delicacies Harborside on the wharf as a substitute. The ambiance was beautiful; nonetheless, the meals was solely good, not nice and the service was bit disappointing.
One other favourite spot is Floating Lotus. In years gone previous, we used to attend their sound baths on the highest flooring. House owners are husband and spouse staff Justin and Karin, who do an incredible job at curating distinctive objects. Principally from Asia, these truthful commerce objects vary from jewellery and tapestries, to singing bowls, garments and statues. On this go to, Anthony walked out with a wonderful labradorite ring we had been each instantly drawn to. They maintain sound experiences of their Bearskin Neck location and bigger spiritually-minded occasions at their Gloucester location alongside Essential Avenue.
Salem
Roughly eight years in the past, we spent a few month touring numerous components of New England, most of it spent in Massachusetts. Be sure you see our write-up on Salem the place we landed by chance. We had been shocked by how a lot enjoyable we had there. In case you love historical past, are dazzled by spirituality or the occult, the American dwelling of witches will remember to whet your urge for food. Sadly, we weren’t capable of meet up with Lori Bruno, possible probably the most famend witch in Salem if not the nation.
She touts herself as a Hereditary Excessive Priestess and Elder of the Sicilian Strega line of the Craft of the Sensible, founder and Head Mom of Our Lord and Woman of the Trinacrian Rose Church. We had been capable of catch her by cellphone and her voice introduced us again to yesteryear and the visions we had of our time together with her in her mystical store Magika on Federal Avenue. With a connection to Egypt as properly, she is a descendant of Gohar–al–Siculi, a Common within the Fataniid Empire, who in A.D. 969 was despatched by the caliph of Baghdad to beat Egypt. In accordance with her, this he did after which went on to discovered Cairo. Beneath is a shot taken with Lori in her retailer.
We spent a number of days in Salem on our final go to, so took in a few of the witch excursions (by day and evening), segway-ed our method by way of city, walked the cemeteries by evening, ate fabulous meals (yum – Finz Seafood & Grill) and experienced a few hotels. We additionally managed to get out on a ship, a schooner and extra. The climate didn’t cooperate this time round as we had been greeted by torrential rainfall upon arrival. The sustaining drizzly skies drove us into the huge block lengthy Witch City Consignment Shop by chance. If you’re operating for canopy, any open retailer will do. Situated on Essex Avenue, it was simply mystical and mesmerizing sufficient to maintain us busy for just a few hours whereas ready for the rain to subside. We left with two containers of goodies, all of which we shipped dwelling. If that is your “factor,” you may additionally need to word different retailers price visiting, resembling Hex Outdated World Witchery, The Cauldron Black Enchanted Store and the HausWitch Residence & Therapeutic.
Boston
A stroll by way of Boston’s historic district and Quincy Market was a good way to spend our remaining afternoon on this outdated American metropolis. In any case, Anthony had by no means been to this a part of the town and I used to be curious to see how issues had modified. And naturally I ached to purchase one thing of their notorious meals corridor. On the best way, we took a leisurely stroll alongside the waterfront, taking within the websites and sweetness.
A panoramic view of the harbor and waterfront space in historic Boston.
Heading towards Quincy Market alongside the water. The sunshine is completely gorgeous at nightfall.
Beneath, somewhat meandering by way of Quincy Market Meals Corridor.
Okay, so I acquired carried away by the dessert colour.
Then we headed to the North Finish for dinner and low, beginning at Naples-influenced Ristorante Saraceno, good for Anthony’s heritage and choice for southern Italian dishes. It’s a staple — not the most effective Italian meals on the earth, nevertheless it’s GOOD and the ambiance is epic.
Beneath, a few the mains . . .
Then there’s Francesca’s alongside the identical essential drag and solely a stone’s throw from Seraceno.
Though locals might argue that there are different cafes that trump the cappuccino at Caffe Vittoria, it stays one among my favourite spots, largely due to the recollections of my youth. All these late nights consuming espresso after lengthy work nights. And to high it off, little or no has modified concerning the place. In different phrases, it’s as I remembered. The ambiance. The tables, chairs, espresso, desserts, lighting — all of it.
Typically, you’ve simply acquired to indulge your interior youngster and relive the tastes, smells and experiences of yesteryear simply because. Fortunately our associates indulged us each step of the best way.
Somerville
Though I wrote earlier that so many issues felt related strolling on outdated roads, stopping in retailers of outdated and re-visiting favourite eating places and cafes, it wasn’t the identical, largely as a result of I’m not the identical. That stated, it introduced me nice pleasure to drink and dine once more in a few of my outdated neighborhoods. Somerville’s Dali remains to be alive and kicking. A Spanish Tapas Bar simply exterior Cambridge’s border, it was the proper spot to assemble twenty or so outdated associates from my time dwelling within the space.
Whereas the tapas are nonetheless heavenly, it’s the ambiance that brings me again many times. They nonetheless ship on that distinctive old-world expertise fifteen years later.
New Hampshire’s Coast
When you cross over into New Hampshire, there’s a lot to see inland, which embrace nice hikes and weekend getaways, however we simply love the coast. This previous journey solely allowed for southern New Hampshire adventures on account of time constraints; nonetheless, we used to drive up Route 1 usually from Boston, exploring the small cities alongside the coast and we did the identical for a lot of Maine as properly.
Like Maine, there are many lobster shacks, however the trendier city of Portsmouth not solely presents fashionable culinary spots to dine however has nice structure. Additional south simply over the Massachusetts border is Newburyport the place I spent a variety of time in my thirties. On this journey, we stayed with associates in Hampton and went out to dinner nightly, visiting their favourite eateries—what a deal with. Scroll under for just a few of these memorable experiences.
Throughout the day, we walked up and down the seashores, amassing seaweed, rocks and shells for my numerous artwork tasks like I at all times do once I journey. You may dine in or buy clams, oysters, lobster, crab and different seafood to prepare dinner at dwelling.
Kittery Maine
There’s not a lot to this artsy little city simply over the Maine border, however we went main to drink and eat. And have a look at artwork after all. It’s a stunning stroll down the primary drag and there are some great walks and hikes close by.
Consuming & Eating
If you would like a extra informal expertise merely to get your “lobster repair” in southern NH, just a few choices embrace Brown’s Lobster Pound (we had one picnic desk model earlier than heading out of city) and Markey’s Lobster Pool, each in Seabrook, Al’s Seafood in North Hampton, Smitty’s State Pier Lobster Pound in Hampton, Ray’s Seafood in Rye and Lobster Boat Restaurant in Litchfield, the latter of which is a identified spot for old-school seafood and pasta.
Beneath, my lobster order earlier than and after.
Whereas I needed to succumb to 2 roadside lobster meals, we additionally wished to strive just a few elegant and tasteful eating spots and our native foodie associates Gail and Steve had been the proper hosts.
First, we ventured to Black Trumpet in Portsmouth which presents a seasonal, eclectic menu with gluten free, vegetarian, vegan and nut free choices as well. They provide a superb Cheese and Charcuterie Plate or you may go for their Shrimp Ceviche Tostada with Cucumber-Nasturtium Pico to kick off your meal. Anthony and I needed to strive the Tea-Smoked Duck Breast with Beet-Noodle Seaweed Salad and Black Garlic Nigella Emulsion. Merely put, it was to die for.
Essential course choices embrace a Brandade Crusted Halibut with Succotash, Swiss Chard, Marinated Tomatoes and Zucchini Sauce, a Soy-Brined Iberico Pork Loin with Buckwheat Noodles, Bok Choy, Umeboshi Plum Puree and Tempura Scallions and a Pan-Fried Zucchini Feta Cake with Mushrooms, Native Greens, Beet Yogurt and Orange Blossom Honey. (Observe the Asian affect)
Desserts had been equally divine, with Chocolate and Cherry Clafoutis and Spiced Mascarpone and Cherry Syrup, and White Chocolate Panna Cotta with Shaved Enna Chocolate and Nilla Water Crumbs all on the menu. And the way about this one? Sweetheart Beet and Plum Swiss Roll with Mascarpone Buttercream and Maple Creme Anglaise? Are you able to say Heavenly 3 times after just a few cocktails and any of those delicious sweets?
For cocktails, a should go to is the ever so distinctive bar in Kittery Maine known as The Wallingford Dram.
Let’s simply say that each one of their cocktails had us at good day. Uncommon mixes embrace the next (they had been too wonderful to not submit intimately):
- A Fist within the Mouth of Time: Bourbon, Smoke, Fernet, Espresso Brandy, Bitters, Lavender
- We Are Nonetheless Us: Buttered Hay Washed Brandy, Black Pepper, Cumin and Orange Curacao with Egg White and Lemon
- Victims of Late Success: Bourbon, Aperol, Mango, Pine, Preserved Lemon, Coco Blast, Nogori Sake (sure, actually), Seltzer and Mint
- Jupiter Jazz: Jalapeno-infused Mezcal, Amaro Montenegro, Passionfruit, Lemon, Orgeat, Szechuan Peppercorns
- By Witchcraft: Cranberry Infused Gin, Dry Curacao, Lime, Cassia, Creme De Violette (good for the area)
- Tankgirl: Tequila, Aperol, Cherry Heering, Lemon, Orgeat, Pineapple and African Birdseye Chili
- Excessive Priestess: Raspberry-Hisbiscus Gin, Blackberry, Lime, Dry Curacao, Chocolate Bitters and Egg White (gotta love the identify)
- Dame Shrub: Gin, Rosemary Pear Shrub, Lemon, Ginger, Essential Hemlock, Seltzer
- A Secret Backyard Highball: Earl Gray Tea Vodka, Home Bitter Lemon Soda
- Boat Cowboy: Tequila, Boubon, Allspice Dram, Pineapple Gomme, Birds Eye Chilli and Bitters
- Northsea Lineman: Rye with Islay Scotch, Maraschino, Pune e Mes, Bitters and Salt
- Leatherman: Bourbon, Carpano Antica, Lapsang Souchong Liqueur and Bitters (Anthony had two – hey, we weren’t driving)
- One thing for Timmy: Olive Oil Washed Bourbon, Inexperienced Chartreuse and Bitters
- Eddy and the Bridge: Strawberries, Peychaud’s Bitters, Pineapple Gomme, Tequila, Guajilo Pepper, Lemon, Seltzer and Thai Basil
Wow proper? I might go on however you get the thought. Extremely artistic, numerous and weird. We might have sat there all evening.
Additionally in Kittery Maine is Anneke Jans, which can also be an uncommon discover for the world. Begin your evening with cocktails at The Walllingford Dram after which stroll over to Anneke Jans for dinner. They provide European-influenced American dinners, small plates and drinks in a snazzy, cosmopolitan setting.
We began off with Oysters and Mussels as a result of how might you not in the event that they’re on the menu? The chef prepares their Maine mussels with bacon, onions, white wine, cream, and Nice Hill blue cheese. Yum, proper?
Different delicious bites at this magical spot embrace Lobster Salad with Inexperienced Corn Relish and Avocado Mousse, Grilled Scallops with Succatosh, Candy Corn Soubise, Citrus and Leeks, their Scottish Salmon with Mango Quinoa Salad, Shiitake Mushrooms, Bok Choy and Miso Ginger Glaze, and Steak Frites with Romesco.
Be sure you take a look at two latest articles on simply meals within the space: Top Boston Foodie Picks by Category and Scrumptious Northeast Restaurant Guide.
Mass Pike to Upstate New York (Facet Journey)
I name this part a aspect journey because the Adirondacks aren’t technically thought of New England, though the small cities in upstate New York are similar to a lot of the cities I’ve visited in Maine (particularly Maine), NH and Vermont with solely minor nuances. We grew up within the Adirondacks so there are many articles to learn and footage to soak up. I wished to level to 5 Highlights to this explicit journey.
1. Exploring the Nice Sacandaga Lake by Boat
Lease a ship and get out on the Sacandaga Lake on the base of the Adirondack Mountains. There are eating places the place you may dock and have lunch on a stunning sunny afternoon (solely works from June till August)
2. Artwork Trails in August
Every summer time, Fulton County has a weekend Artwork Stroll and we lucked out this yr as we had been on the town for it. All through Mayfield, Gloversville, Northville, Edinburg, Wells and Broadalbin, you may go to artists’ galleries, a few of that are of their houses.
Our favourite artist picks this yr embrace Alexandra Higgins whose medium is basically oil and acrylics on canvas and sculptor, Robyn Isabella whose medium is basically working with copper and mosaic tiles (she technically wasn’t on this yr’s Artwork Stroll however she’s my sister, so she will get a name out since her work is amaaaazing), Panorama oil painter Marion Kratky and Michele Johnsen, who makes a speciality of Driftwood Artwork.
Beneath is Mosaic Artwork by Robyn Valentine.
Galleries ranged from garages, houses, and barns to co-ops, conventional workplace buildings and past.
For extra data, take a look at the Sacandaga Valley Arts Community and the SVAN Arts Heart – they’re svanarts on Fb and primarily based in Northville NY. Beneath are just a few photographs I took alongside the street close to Gloversville New York.
3. Lenox Massachusetts is a enjoyable place to discover in the event you’re heading to upstate New York. Be sure you cease by the normal and ever-so historic Crimson Lion Inn. Sit on the porch, order some biscuits, a cheese plate and an enormous pot of tea. We browsed a few of the cute retailers alongside the primary drag of Lenox for an hour or so earlier than grabbing some drinks and assembly an outdated pal.
Beneath, simply exterior The Crimson Lion Inn in Lenox.
4. Coxsackie New York. There’s not a lot right here, however a pleasant lunch spot is Yanni’s Restaurant alongside the river the place I managed to meet up with an outdated highschool pal and his spouse.
5. Vintage-ing
We solely visited a handful of vintage retailers in Northville and Gloversville this yr. On our method again to Boston, we spent extra time than we anticipated in a Ballston Spa Vintage Emporium. Just a few hours truly. Sure, actually. The place is fabulous and in the event you love conventional (outdated) authentic work, they’ve a ton of choices adorning practically each wall. We left with some artwork, a big wood horse head and a ceramic bowl I couldn’t go away behind. For sure, touring dwelling was a little bit of a problem however we made it with out one factor breaking. Thank God for bubble wrap.
A lot extra could be stated about our journey again East. Eating places and cafes had been ignored, particulars missed, nature walks and riveting conversations omitted. Extra footage had been taken. Extra bread was damaged. Extra recollections had been made. For me anyway, America’s Nice Northeast is at all times well worth the journey. Thanks for the sweetness of all of it.