If Hans Christian Andersen have been alive at this time, you’d most likely discover him in Copenhagen’s bougiest borough, Vesterbro, the place he’d be sipping on matcha lattes whereas engaged on some starry-eyed story on his MacBook Air. He’d don a pair of Cecilie Bahnsen Asics, have his cargo bike parked outdoors, and intermittently replace his Instagram story with wistful pictures of half-eaten small plates (The Princess and the Jerusalem Artichoke, is it now, Hans?). Such is the Vesterbro means.
As soon as town’s pink mild district, the realm has undergone a radical transformation over the previous 20 years, from no-go zone to one in all Copenhagen’s most sought-after addresses. As we speak, it embodies Danish dwelling at its best: various and trendy with heaps of convivial hygge. Our insider’s information to Vesterbro will provide help to navigate the Nordic capital’s coolest ‘hood like a local…
WHERE TO DRINK
Set in its namesake sq., Enghave Plads 9 is the epitome of native. Right here, you’ll discover gatherings of Vesterbro’s Ganni-est women, {couples} sharing a bottle of date-night fizz, or clusters of colleagues rocking up for the comedy night time after a not-so-long day within the workplace (4pm end, anybody?). Pure wine is the principle draw right here, with an uncommon number of biodynamic tipples and funky pet nats. However craft ales, cocktails and – come winter – warming mugs of gløgg, are additionally on the menu. Interiors are stylishly sparse, with illustrations by mates of the bar adorning naked brick partitions. If you happen to’re visiting in the summertime, pull up a chair on the streetside terrace and watch the world – and the outfits – go by.
Warpigs – It’s not essentially the most alluring title for a bar, admittedly, however after a schooner or two, you’re unlikely to care. By now, a Copenhagen establishment, this Mikkeller canteen-cum-beerhall has a constantly wide selection of hip hops with 22 house-brews on faucet, the occasional visitor beer, spirits, and wine. There are sauce-slathered barbecue bites, smoked meats and stacked sandwiches to maintain you grounded, and a leather-worthy soundtrack of rock ‘n’ roll classics from the likes of Fleetwood Mac, and (properly, duh) Black Sabbath. For one thing extra refined, attempt Lidkoeb, a blink-and-you’ll-miss it cocktail bar unfold throughout three flooring of a former apothecary. Because the sister bar of town’s acclaimed Ruby, Lidkoeb already has cachet amongst clued-up liquor lovers, not least for its moody third-floor whisky bar. Head right here on a Friday or Saturday night for tasting flights, or prop up the downstairs bar for a Cosmo Highball or three.
WHERE TO EAT
Begin your day proper at Bageriet Brød, a low-key sourdough bakery whose loaded rye sandwiches could be town’s greatest stored secret. Select from goats’ cheese with pickled kale, walnuts, cranberries, and apple; potato, kimchi and sriracha mayo; or pastrami, selfmade Dijon-mayo, cornichons, and Vesterhavsost cheese. However you’ll want to save room for buttery Danishes, chocolate-topped gammeldags (candy, doughy buns) and cream-filled fastelavnsboller (the Danish tackle Swedish semla). For dinner, head to Cofoco, the namesake restaurant of Copenhagen Meals Collective whose revered roster of eateries have been shaping town’s eating scene since 2004. The menu right here is stuffed with easy, elegant small plates, impressed by the Mediterranean however made with home-grown Danish produce. We suggest moving into for the five-course tasting menu to pattern a bit of little bit of all the things.
Much less polished however equally scrumptious, Café Dyrehaven is a one-of-a-kind, mid-century-style diner that appears prefer it’s been plucked straight out of Twin Peaks. Its wood-panelled bar and cubicles, low-hanging lamps, wall-mounted deer heads, and nicotine-stained work all function a reminder of the district’s shady roots. And but, for all its classic appeal, it nonetheless feels very modern, bringing the twenty first century in with hand-scrawled neons, candy-striped awning and super-cool employees who might simply as properly be strolling for Raf Simons with their messy mullets and stick ‘n’ poke tatts. Anticipate seasonal dishes served on mismatched classic plates: chestnut-stuffed pumpkin, salmon and fennel smørrebrøds and – our private favorite – Guinness cake with whiskey cream.
WHAT TO DO
It’s laborious to argue Vesterbro’s standing as the best a part of Copenhagen, but it surely wasn’t at all times so. By the Nineteen Nineties town was a far cry from the Nordic powerhouse it’s at this time. Trade had moved to the ‘burbs, the center lessons had moved with it, andhings appeared bleak. Particularly right here, as anybody who’s seen Mads Mikkelsen in Pusher can attest to. However that each one modified when town launched into a large-scale programme of city and cultural regeneration. Kødbyen, Vesterbro’s meatpacking district, is an emblem of these efforts, a spot the place deserted butcheries and processing crops have been remodeled into artistic areas, cafés and bars. Principally. However don’t be alarmed if, on exiting the membership at 5am, you encounter folks in blood-splattered overalls prepared for the morning shift– energetic processing amenities nonetheless exist in-between all of the enjoyable stuff.
Get your Kødbyen tradition repair at V1 Gallery, a small however mighty house dedicated to rising artists and hailed by The New York Instances as town’s coolest gallery. Or, take a look at Fotografisk Center, an area devoted to camera-based work the place you’ll discover a rotation of exhibitions all yr spherical, alongside a programme of movie screenings, workshops and artist talks, and a bookstore filled with specialist literature.
Tivoli Gardens, in fact, is a should. This amusement park is without doubt one of the world’s oldest – based again in 1843 – and truly impressed Walt Disney’s first Disneyland. Soar on the famed wood curler coaster, the Rutschebanen, which has been dipping adrenaline-seekers for greater than a century; take a stroll via a fantasy Danish market city; bathe among the many blooms of Parterre Gardens; or journey to the far East on the open-air Chinese language theatre.
If the climate’s enjoying ball, take a picnic to Skydebanehaven, and convey the little ones too – there’s a toddler pool for them to splash round in, and employees who’ll prepare treasure hunts and video games. A brief stroll away, Kihoskh is Copenhagen’s reply to the Berlin-style ‘späti’ the place you may seize a beer, espresso and a distinct segment journal to flick via, alfresco, when you sip. In colder climes, take shelter in Absalon, a vibrant church turned group home, the place you may mingle with the locals over bingo and a shared meal on the day by day Fællesspisning, a Danish custom of communal consuming.
WHERE TO STAY
These after a magical kingdom to briefly name residence will discover it at Nimb, an Arabian Nights-style keep throughout the partitions of Tivoli Gardens. Spend a romantic keep in monochromatic suites and fall in love with their eccentric particulars: carved armoires, chairs upholstered in floral silk and Philippe Starck tub tubs sufficiently big for 2. The grand ballroom bar makes for a wonderful sipping spot, with a crackling hearth and blush-hued sofas to twist up on, whereas the brasserie dishes out Gallic goodies morning, midday and night time. However the jewel of Nimb’s Disney-esque crown is up on the rooftop, the place you may end off laps within the emerald inexperienced pool with a Champagne-fuelled sundown session.
However in case you’re extra Saks Potts than Goldilocks, Coco Hotel is a fashionista favorite with a Parisian edge. The guts of the resort centres round Café Coco, a bistro-bar the place you’ll discover Vesterbro’s artistic crowd hanging out amid a backdrop of prints and work, rattan cupboards and loads of terrazzo. As you’d count on, the wine is au naturel and the soundtrack curated, with dwell DJs manning the decks every weekend. Rooms, although cosy, are dressed to impress, some with vibrant, block-colour partitions and others extra muted however equally stylish – assume wooden flooring, photographic artworks and daring textiles.
Prepared in your subsequent large Nordic journey? Say hej to our full assortment of Scandinavian stays…
