Having just lately visited Cornwall for the primary time (in my defence, I’m northern, so the West Nation has been uncharted territory for many of my life), I’ve some ideas.
Firstly, I’ve by no means been anyplace fairly as dog-friendly. I don’t have a canine, however in the event you do, likelihood is it’s going to swan round resorts and cafés feeling like Mr/Mrs Fashionable.
Secondly, why did no-one warn me how good the meals is?! I used to be anticipating white sandy seashores and spectacular surroundings (and I received them), however I hadn’t appreciated simply what number of life-enhancing lunches I’d eat over the course of two weeks hiding from the rain.
And that’s the magic of Cornwall. It rained for the complete journey however the high quality of the produce is so excessive and the eating choices so plentiful that – like Andie MacDowell in 1994 – I hadn’t observed. I used to be too busy gorging myself foolish on sharing plates. Severely, the tomatoes I purchase in London ought to be ashamed of themselves.
If blustery walks and sea dips get you going, there’s loads of that in Cornwall, however in contrast to many seaside hotspots, it’s a year-round foodie vacation spot in its personal proper. These are simply a number of the eating places we liked…
FOUR BOYS
Four Boys café in upscale Rock (a ferry hop from Padstow) opened its doorways in summer time ‘23 to a near-immediate rave overview from the OG king of swearing: Gordon Ramsay. Different glowing suggestions adopted, making this informal café by the ocean one of many coolest lunch spots in Cornwall.
It’s filled with plummy accents however it’s not fancy and – like most locations in these components – 4 Boys is dog-friendly, so accessorise with a few salty hounds in the event you like. We perched on stools by the window-ledge and ate scallops, peach salad, plump hake buns and silky, creamy lemon tart. If the latter is on the menu, don’t even ponder skipping dessert.
MINE
Mine is squeezed into the nook of a cobbled courtyard in Falmouth. It’s tiny inside, so reserving (and stipulation that you just wish to sit inside) is crucial. Our desk neighbour apparently forgot to specify this and was barely seen beneath two sizzling water bottles and three blankets. It wasn’t notably chilly, so the drama was virtually distracting from our dinner.
Probably the most memorable eating places from our journey tended to revolve round seasonal small plates and that is no exception, We dabbled with pasta in lamb ragu, crab fritters, a hog scotch egg and chocolate delice. I swear there was a vegetable concerned in some unspecified time in the future…
FLORA
This can be a place to really feel smug about once you inform a holidaying pal and so they haven’t heard of it but. Down in Helston, there’s an extended and verdant driveway that leads by means of the Trelowarren Property – and ultimately – to slightly stableyard café and bakery referred to as Flora. It’s so tucked away that it appears like a hidden secret, or it could if there weren’t individuals at each desk.
The setup is significantly charming and the workers (it’s family-run) are presumably extra so. On our go to they allow us to conceal in a separate room with the door closed, away from the summer time wasp invasion. That was two months in the past and we’re nonetheless speaking in regards to the tomato salad and beetroot gazpacho.
PIZZA PLS
All of those luscious small plates eating places after which a pizza joint in Penryn that’s a nightmare to park outdoors of? Erm, sure. I can solely ask that you just belief me after I say the wood-fired pizzas at Pizza Pls have been so good that we went again twice.
When you can’t park, drive around the block a number of occasions till somebody strikes since you don’t wish to miss this. Particularly in the event you’re sick of fish. Even in the event you’re not sick of fish, go anyway. Not each night time of a vacation must be devoted to positive eating, and carb-loading doesn’t get way more scrumptious.
COOMBESHEAD FARM
Coombeshead Farm actually does have all the pieces. It could be annoying if the setting wasn’t so idyllic, the rooms so charming and the bread so excellent. Oh lord, the bread. Sticky, chewy, want-it-served-with-everything.
You possibly can ebook a keep on this 66-acre working farm and discover its woodland and meadows between meals, or you may simply cease for lunch or dinner in your method to/from Cornwall. The dead-central location simply off the A30 makes it a much better alternative than the service station Burger King. Ebook forward – its very good home-grown produce rightfully attracts the crowds, so you may’t simply rock up with an urge for food and no reservation.
HARBOUR HOUSE FLUSHING
I’ve to preface this by saying that the dishes we ate at Harbour House pub in Flushing (a hop throughout the water from Falmouth) weren’t our first and even second selections. We arrived on the finish of service and so our choices have been restricted, however the meals right here is clearly glorious in the event you select nicely.
The monkfish we ordered was nice however it was the sold-out pasta that we actually hankered after. The strawberry soup was a revelation. As with most locations on this checklist, Harbour Home is pet-friendly, so it’s an upscale choice for a pub-food-shouldn’t-be-this-good dinner with the canine (and possibly the household) after a day on the seashore.
And are available again in the summertime for…
FITZROY
Of the 2 Fowey (pronounced ‘Foy’, because it seems) outposts owned by the staff behind London’s Jolene/Westerns Laundry/Primeur; Fitzroy is probably the most restaurant-y and it’s the one you’ll wish to ebook for dinner. We ate on the bar, watching targeted cooks plate up within the tiny open kitchen.
A mumbled order meant the unintentional arrival of grilled lobster (hate when that occurs), plus steak, fried lemon sole and baked custard. It’s low-key fashionable and but gloriously unfussy. (Open from March to September – verify their Instagram for precise dates.)
NORTH STREET KITCHEN
The extra informal sister of Fitzroys, North Avenue Kitchen isn’t actually a restaurant, it’s extra of a ship shed by the water with picket trestle tables and a bar. In actual fact, it’s precisely that. The decor extends to posters pinned to the wall, a number of fishing nets and a few festoon lights. It’s rustic and the meals is sensational.
This can be a daytime-only state of affairs and also you’ll doubtless eat together with your coat on (bless Cornwall in July) however the fried white fish, Coombeshead farm bread and chocolate mousse are price any drizzly jostle for a desk. (Open from March to September – verify their Instagram for precise dates.)
MACKEREL SKY SEAFOOD BAR
When you arrive within the fairly village of Mousehole, take one have a look at the crowds by the harbour and promptly panic about the place to eat, don’t. Hop again within the automotive and drive 5 minutes down the street to Mackerel Sky in arty Newlyn.
You received’t be lured in by the Instagrammable interiors, however taking images would solely waste helpful consuming time anyway. That is actually good, actually contemporary fish (plus prolonged shellfish household) served each which approach from crispy sole with katsu sauce to traditional mussels in cider and cream. They’re open 10 months of the yr however shut for a break from mid-December to mid-February.
Want a lie down in spite of everything that? Discover our full assortment of Cornwall hotels
Other than her work as a contract design journalist for publications similar to Home & Backyard and British Vogue, Eleanor Cording-Sales space is understood for her obsessive consideration to element and frequent unfulfilled threats to maneuver out of London’s Barbican Property looking for verdant hills and no speedy neighbours. Observe Eleanor on Instagram @aconsideredspace and skim extra of her writing on Substack.
